Philipsborn's Fashion Catalog (1920-21)

Philipsborn, also known as The Outer Garment House, was a clothing company based in Chicago, Illinois, that sold clothing, accessories, and fabrics. The Fall & Winter of 1920-21 Philipsborn's Fashion Catalog presents readers with a myriad of women's dresses and coats available for sale over 103 years ago. This item also includes a variety of accessories including hats, gloves, shoes, shapewear, etc. A smaller section for children and men can also be found in the catalog.

Throughout the catalog, items are presented in a conventional retail format. However, toward the end of each section of dresses, coats, and other items there is another segment for "stout women," a term that would today be understood as "plus-size." Notably, the illustrations of these women differ only subtly from those of their thinner counterparts, with perhaps slightly fuller faces or softer features. The wording of the ad used to address these women is also something notable. On page 77 of the catalog, these "stout women" are referred to as "women of more generous proportions," and the designer of these clothes has "used the clever new style features to overcome any appearance of extra size" so that the clothes can "impart grace and becomingness to the stout figure."

The wording of this advertisement and its address of plus-size women are seemingly unheard of today. The progression of the ideal body image seen in catalogs through the ages is interesting in and of itself. The predecessor of the 1920's "flapper" was known as the "Gibson Girl" of the 1900-10s. Gibson Girls were voluptuous women with cinched waists and wide hips, aided by corsets and still reminiscent of the Victorian era (Premanand). This was quite a drastic change to the women that we see in the Philipsborn catalog. Women of the 1920s lopped their hair off into a short bob and raised their skirts to knee length to be more comfortable dancing, with dresses becoming much looser as well. Shapewear, like corsets, were generally cast aside in favor of a more androgynous appearance, and women were expected to be thin and flat-chested. Moving into the 1930s, a more hourglass figure was embraced as seen in the 1935 Au Bon Marché catalog. Women were still slim, but they had a slightly larger bust and hips. A small waist was achieved with shapewear and corsets and even accentuated by the now-welcomed form-fitting clothing.

The female figure of the 1940s progressed even further, as shown in the Chicago Mail Order Company Catalog: Spring and Summer 1940 edition. World War II influenced the ideal body type, and more muscular arms and legs were ushered in, and even something called "military shoulders" (Premanand). A muscular figure was believed to be formed due to aiding the war effort by working, and military shoulders (broader/muscular shoulders) were attractive because they had a commanding presence. Clothes were frequently designed to show off the arms and legs. A plumper figure was to be seen, still sporting an hourglass shape, mind you. In the 1957 Waldron and Company Catalog, viewers can see yet another change in body standards. The 1950s aesthetic transformed the muscle from the 40s to suppleness. Again, the hourglass figure was still coveted. Less muscle means more curves, however, and women were encouraged to have a larger bust and rounder hips. This era is also known as the Golden Age of Hollywood, and prominent examples of these ideals were icons like Marilyn Monroe.

Jumping to the present day, fashion companies are making an effort to embrace all body types now. There are exclusively plus-size companies that provide women with inclusive sizing that they normally would not find otherwise. Advertisement initiatives are putting plus-size women more towards the forefront. With an average person having access to the internet, transparency about realistic bodies is now ever-present. This societal 180 is happening now because there has "been a buildup in demand from consumers who don't want to see something unattainable or unrelatable."

This Item of the Month was written by Angelina Hammonds, Sophomore (September 29, 2024), Nursing major,

**Items of the Month featured from 2024 – 2026 will be the work of Southern Miss students who took HON 303, a seminar held in Fall 2024 focusing on archives and special collections.